Rincon de la Victoria

Rincón de la Victoria was a fishing town up to twenty years ago, but at only 12 kilometres from Malaga, it has now become an important centre of both residential and seasonal tourism. One arrives on the Autovía del Mediterráneo, heading towards Motril and turning off at La Cala del Moral, or keeping to the autovía. The N-340 road passes through the town, and even from here one can see that this was once a typical fishing town on the coast. The municipality covers an area of 30 square kilometres, and offers something for everybody: lots of hotels, restaurants and bars, ten kilometres of coastline for water sports or simply lying in the sun, an excellent golf course and other sporting facilities. The 18-hole Añoreta Golf Course, designed by Jose María Cañizares, is on the border with Torre de Benagalbón, and is considered one of the best in Spain. The paseo marítimo (esplanada) that links La Cala del Moral with Rincón is seven kilometres long, and from here there are wonderful views over Malaga Bay. There are chiringuitos (beach bars and restaurants) on the beach, where one can eat fresh fish or have a drink. One of the old traditions that has not yet been lost in Rincón de la Victoria is net fishing on the beaches in the early morning. A net of about 40 or 50 metres long is thrown into the water by a group of men, who make a wide circle with it, gradually pulling it in to the beach again full of fish, if they are lucky. This is a sight that is seldom seen in other parts of Europe, and well worth getting out of bed early for.

PLACES TO VISIT

Cueva del Tesoro

This cave, known up to quite recently as the Cueva del Higuerón or the Cueva del Suizo, is situated on the Cantal hill, half way between La Cala and Rincón. Inside were found Palaeolithic remains from the first Bronze Age. Besides its archaeological value, there is also the mythical belief that this was the sanctuary of the Mediterranean Goddess Noctiluca 2,500 years ago. Of the numerous caves inside the complex, the most interesting is the Cueva del Tesoro, with 500 metres of gallery. Very close to this there is a series of smaller caves, the most interesting of which is the Cueva de la Victoria. This is in the area known as the Cantal Gordo, and is currently closed to the public. It had been suffering a great deal of contamination since first discovered in 1939, and the writer Giménez Reyna tells how, in 1943, the farm workers of the region used to search for bats inside the cave, to be used as fertiliser. The cave has some beautiful paintings on its walls, some fairly abstract in ochre colours and some bird shapes. Recently, more Palaeolithic paintings in reds and black have been found in the area. The cave was named by the Swiss treasure hunter Antonio de la Nari, who arrived here at the beginning of the 19th century in search of the treasures buried by the Five Moorish Kings. He met with a poetically just end, however, when he was blown up by the powder he used in excavating the Cueva del Higuerón in 1847. Tel: 952 406 162. From 10 to 2 p.m. and from 3 to 6 p.m.

Casa Fuerte Bezmiliana

This defensive fortress dating from the 18th century has been restored and is currently used for exhibitions and cultural activities. It is a simple construction with a square ground plan, exterior walls made of rubble and two defensive towers. The coat-of-arms on the front is that of Carlos III, and the inside was built to hold troops and horses, with wells and storage space for arms and food.

Cala del Moral

This area was known as the Cala del Moral in the 16th century, being a key defensive and vigilance point on the coast at that time

FIESTAS AND FOOD

Fiestas

With four distinct urban areas in the municipality, Rincón de la Victoria has many festivals throughout the year. As a fishing town, the principal festival is the Virgen del Carmen on July 16th. This begins with mass in the church, and then the Virgen is carried on her throne by the fishermen to the beach. There a boat is waiting, decorated with flowers, and the Virgen is brought on board. With fireworks going off, the boat sails up the coast, escorted by many others. In recent years the ancient Jábegas Regattas have been held again in La Cala and Rincón. The jábega is a type of Mediterranean boat dating back many centuries that is rowed by a team of seven, and a helmsman. Benagalbón has its own festival in honour of its patron saint on February 2nd, the same day as the Festival of the Candelaria. The Torre de Benagalbón area celebrates its festival of San Juan on June 23rd, when the beaches are illuminated by bonfires and sardines are roasted on the spit. At the point of midnight, the people bathe in the sea to purify their spirit and make a wish for the year to come.

Gastronomy

The most famous and delicious dish in Rincón de la Victoria in summertime is the boquerón vitoriano, the Victoria anchovy, although all fried fish is cooked here all the year around. Another way of cooking fish here is with rice. Somewhat in from the coast one finds the more traditional country fare of Andalucía: fried breadcrumbs, beef, kid or goat, all washed down by the excellent Moclinejo wine. Moscatel grapes or avocado pears are often eaten here as dessert, and there is a wide selection of pastries made locally.

Where to eat

Restaurante Merendero El Boticario. Specialising in fish and seafood. Pº Marítimo Nuestra Señora del Carmen. Tel: 952 404 652. 

Restaurante Bernardo. Specialising in seafood. Paseo Marítimo Blas Infante, s/n. Tel: 952 404 734. 

Restaurante Campanillas. Family atmosphere. Specialising in fish and seafood. Avda. del Mediterráneo, s/n. Tel.952 403 613.

Taberna de Manolo. Specialising in tapas. C/ Granada s/n. Tel: 908 84 19 61.  

Restaurante Maribel. Specialising in fried fish. Avda. Blas Infante, 5. Tel: 952 404 842.  Cala del Moral. 

Taberna Casa Eduardo. Specialising in flamenquines, scrambled eggs, salmorejo and tapas. Avda. del Mediterráneo. Tel: 952 971 614

Where to sleep Hotel Elimar (3*). Avenida del Mediterráneo, 168 and 230. Tel: 952 401 227 and 952 402 161. 29730. Rincón de la Victoria. 

Hotel Rincónsol (3*). Avenida del Mediterráneo, 174. Tel: 952 401 100. 29730. R. de la Victoria. 

Hotel Nuestra Señora de la Victoria.  Tel: 952 406 200. 29730. R. de la Victoria. 

Hotel Maria Cristina (2*).  Avenida de Málaga, 18. Cala del Moral. Tel: 952 408 317. 

Published in Sur in English October 24 th 2003